REASONS TO PRUNE PLANTS:
• To limit the size a of a plant
• To remove diseased, insect infested, storm damaged or dead wood
• To increase the vigor of declining plants
• To develop a specific plant form
WHEN TO PRUNE:
Most plants can be pruned safely at almost any time of the year. There may be a period of time when pruning is preferred due to flowering or fruit production. Survival of the plant being pruned will not be jeopardized if not pruned at that time.
The best way to determine when a plant should be pruned is by when the plant blooms. If a plant is grown primarily for its blooms, pruning should follow the blooming period. Pruning prior to blooming will remove the blooms. Spring blooming plants form their flower buds in the fall prior to the spring blooming period, therefore, spring bloomers should be pruned late spring to early summer after their blooming period. Summer bloomers form flower buds on current season’s growth and should be pruned in the spring just prior to leaf bud break.
Ornamental Shrubs
SPRING FLOWERING TREES AND SHRUBS: (pruned immediately after blooming)
Azaleas, Crabapple, Dogwood, Flowering Cherry, Flowering Quince, Forsythia, Hawthorn, Lilacs, Magnolia, Mock Orange, Redbud, Shrub Honeysuckles, Shrub Roses, Smoketree, Spring Blooming Spireas, Viburnum
SUMMER FLOWERING TREES AND SHRUBS: (pruned before spring growth begins)
Crapemyrtle, Glossy Abelia, Hybrid Tea Roses, Hydrangea, Rose-of-Sharon , Summer Blooming Spireas
If the plant is not grown for flowers, the best time for pruning is usually dependent on when the plant will recover from pruning the fastest. In most cases this is just before growth begins in the spring. This is especially true when heavy pruning is done. Light pruning and shaping can be done all during the growing season. Severe pruning should not be done in the late summer or early fall due to the possibility of stimulating late season growth which will not have time to harden off before winter sets in.
UPRIGHT CONIFERS:
Pines, True Cedars, Spruces
These plants should usually never be pruned. Because of their size, they should be planted where there is no need for controlling their height. If cut back beyond the green foliage, new growth will not develop. If the top (terminal) has been broken off of a pine, true cedar, or spruce it will not develop a new growing point without help. To help, bend one of the youngest branches near the top into an upright position and secure it. After a season or two, this branch will begin to grow and develop normal branches.
Junipers, Arborvitae
These plants can be maintained in smaller sizes if they are pruned some each year. They are pruned with shears and kept in symmetrical forms. If the plant becomes overgrown and must be cut back beyond green foliage the form of the plant will be destroyed. Remove the plant and replace it with a new one.
SPREADING CONIFERS:
Spreading Junipers
These plants must be pruned some each year to maintain their size because once they are overgrown they cannot be cut back beyond the green foliage. If it is cut back beyond the green foliage, it will not produce new growth. The best pruning tool for junipers is a pair of loppers with which you may selectively remove long and damaged limbs. Make all cuts in such a way that a growing point is left to grow and recover the cut area.
BROADLEAF EVERGREENS:
Hollies, Boxwoods, Euonymus, and other broadleaf evergreens not grown for their flowers
Prune in early spring just before new growth begins. Pruning at this time will enable the plant to quickly produce new growth and hide the effects of pruning. This is especially true if a plant has become too large for a site and has to be severely pruned back. It is possible to cut them back to the major trunk; however, they should not be cut completely to the ground if regrowth is desired.
